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Ingredient Glossary III

Nonionic Surfactants - Those in which the active molecule has no electric charge. Their properties vary widely, from very harsh cleansers (often found in commercial shampoos and rug cleaners) to coating and fiber softening agents found in balsams and rinses.

Nonoxynol 12 - Used as a non ionic surface active agent and as a dispersing agent.

O - Cresol - White to reddish crystals used in the manufacture of dyes.

Octylacrylamide Acrylate Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer - Part of cationic system. A fixative that is water soluble if washed within 48 hours after application. Used for stiffness and high gloss in hair sprays.

Octylacrylamide Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer - (see Octylacrylamide Acrylate Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer)

Octyl Methoxycinnamate - A sunscreen that blocks UV - B rays that is derived from cinnamic acid.

Oleth 20 - Organic perfume stabilizer, derived from unsaturated fatty acids.

Orange Peel Extract - Extract from "green" variety of oranges, very rich in natural elements. Used for color.

Palm Kernelamide DEA and MEA - A mixture of ethanolamides of the fatty acids derived from palm kernel oil. Used as a conditioning agent and thickener for shampoos.

Panthenol - Member of the Vitamin B complex family used as a hair thickener and conditioning agent. During oxidation, it is converted to Vitamin B - 5 (pantheonic acid).

PEG - 100 Stearate - An emulsifier.

Pentacrythritol Tetra Caprate/Caprylate - Emulsifier derived from caprylic acid. Vegetable source.

Phenyl Trimethicone - Water resistant silicone, adds shine and flexibility.

Polyquaternium 11 - A fixative with anti - bacterial properties. Adds hold and sheen in styling tools.

Polysorbate 20 - A viscous, oily, water soluble liquid used to stabilize perfumes in water based preparations (like shampoos, etc.)

Polysorbate 80 - A viscous liquid used to emulsify oils.

Potassium Sorbate - A mild food grade preservative found in cheese, wine, etc.

PPG 2 Isodeceth 12 - An organic solubilixer of perfume oils and emulsifier.

Pristane - - A saturated hydrocarbon found in natural oils.

Propane - A natural propellant.

Propyl Paraben - A food grade preservative - see Methyl Paraben. It is often confused with paraffin.

Propylene Glycol Dicocoate - A mixture of propylene glycol esters of coconut fatty acids. Aids in removing unwanted "build - up" from hair.

PVM/MA Copolymer - A water soluble fixative used in hairsprays and styling tools.

PVP/VA Copolymer - A water soluble fixative used in hairsprays.

Pyroxidine HCL - Vitamin B6 used as a texturizer.

Quaternium 15 - A water soluble anti

icrobial agent active against bacteria.

Salicylic Acid - Broad spectrum antibacterial and fungicidal agent. Used externally as an antimicrobial/anti - acne agent and in anti - dandruff shampoos as the active agent. It is found in nature in several plants, notably in sweet birch bark and wintergreen leaves (commercial sources are synthetic).

SD 40 Alcohol - Often listed as SDA40. It belongs to the alcohol family and is the only drinkable one specially denatured by adding bittering agents to make it not suitable for human consumption. It is used primarily in hair spray as a resin solvent.

SD Alcohol 40B - Same as above with different denaturants.

Shea Butter - The natural fat obtained from the fruit of the Karite tree. Used as a replacement for lanolin.

Sodium Cetyl Sulfate - A derivative of saturated fatty alcohol. Water soluble.

Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate - An organic preservative derived from the amino acid glycine.

Sodium Laureth Sulfate - A derivative of polyethylene glycol and lauryl alcohol. It is much milder than sodium lauryl sulfate. It is also recommended for use in conjunction with other surfactants.

Sodium Myristoyl Sarcosinate - Very mild amphoteric surfactant. Excellent, very mild cleansing agent with light conditioning properties.

Sodium Lactate - In cosmetics, it is used effectively in skin care products to supplement the skin's own naturally occurring sodium lactate in order to provide additional moisturizing and skin conditioning, especially under dry conditions. It is also used in conjunction with lactic acid (an AHA - Alpha Hydroxy Acid) in products designed to help rejuvenate aging skin.


Sodium PCA - A powerful humectant (moisturizing agent). This natural moisturizer is found in stratum corneum and is part of the natural Moisturizing Factor of skin.

Sodium Thiosulfate - An inorganic salt, very reactive. Used to neutralize chlorine and other halogens.

Sorbitol - Humectant, moisturizing agent and lubricant. It has similar properties to glycerin but is more compatible to hair.

Stearalkonium Chloride - Cationic surfactant that has excellent substantivity to hair's keratin protein. Reduces static electricity by neutralizing electrical charges on hair. Good conditioning agent.

Stearamidopropyl Dimethyamine - A water soluble derivative of stearic acid. Possesses unique properties of closing hair cuticles over a wide range of pH.

Steareth 21 - The polyethelyne glycol ethers of stearyl alcohol. The number indicates the degree of liquidity from 4 (thin) to 100 (solid). An emulsifier.

Stearic Acid - An organic fatty acid used as the basic ingredient to create O/W (oil in water) emulsions in conjunction with TEA. These emulsions are water soluble with good penetrating properties.

Stearyl Alcohol - A natural fatty alcohol, very similar to cetyl alcohol. (see cetyl alcohol) Derived from coconut oil.

Surfactant - Surface agents that have many cosmetic uses. For example, cleansers, wetting agents, emulsifiers, solubizers, conditioning agents and foam stabilizers.

TEA Laureth Sulfate - A triethanolamine salt of ethoxylated lauryl sulfate, an anionic surfactant compatible with amphoterics. A very effective, yet very mild, cleansing agent.

TEA Lauryl Sulfate - (similar to TEA Laureth Sulfate).

Tetrasodium EDTA - Same as sodium EDTA or Na - EDTA. It's a chelating agent (sequestrant) that reacts with sodium, calcium and magnesium salts found in hard water and "makes" them water soluble. Reduces build - up.

Triethanolamine (TEA) - An alkanomine used as part of an emulsion system in conjunction with organic acids like stearic acid. Also serves as a softener in hair spray.

Triethyl Citrate - Derived from citric acid. It gives pliability to fixatives.

Tyrosine - A building block of protein, tyrosine is the amino acid in hair that color adheres to.

Vinyl Acetate Crotonic Acid Neodecanate Copolymer - Hairspray fixative. Xanthan Gum - A highly molecular polysaccharide gum used as a thickener.